NY Times reporter N. R. Kleinfield sees the increasing number of obnoxious nightclubs masquerading as bowling alleys as an early indicator on an economic recovery. "As New York struggles to resurrect its economy, it needs powerful new engines of growth," writes Kleinfield. "There must be an answer. There is. Bowling alleys." Which would be a fine fantasy if the bowling alleys he cites were places where you could roll without losing your league shirt, but Kleinfield sees the overpriced popularity of Bowlmor, Lucky Strike, and the newly upscale Leisure Time Bowl as optimistic signs of growth. Remember when bowling used to be an affordable diversion for the working class? Go to Forest Hills if you want that... er, nevermind.

Later this year a 90,000-square-foot Bowlmor alley will open in the former New York Times building to the tune of $20 million. And thus Kleinfield coos, quite accurately, that today's bowling alleys are mostly "V.I.P. lounges, clubs, sports bars. Dark lighting. D.J.’s and thundering music. Videos dancing over flat-screen televisions above the pins. Waiter service. Dress codes. Coolness. The bowling is often a way to kill time between drink orders. The alleys rely heavily on corporate and private parties. Some customers never bother to bowl. Meanwhile, conventional alleys continue to close." Good grief, if this is how the economy recovers, we say OVER THE LINE. On the other hand, while we do love classic, blue collar bowling alleys, we're not schlepping to Ozone Park that often. Which is why The Gutter still strikes the right balance.