A deli to New Yorkers can mean an excellent place for pastrami, or it can mean the corner store where you make 3 a.m. beer runs. Twin Suns Deli, which opened last Thursday on Himrod Street in Bushwick, is a melange of the two: you can stock on up mustard, mayo and potato chips and also score a first-rate sandwich in the process. This is next-wave deli, like Harry & Ida's: part artisanal sandwich shop, part cutesy general store.
Owners Danielle Masback, Stacy Hall, Rich Porpiglia and Montana Masback have imparted a little New Orleans flair to their shop, offering both their take on the muffuletta as well as Cafe Du Monde beignet mix and Duke's mayonnaise, a Southern pantry staple. Their Sloppy Roast Bee Po Boy ($12) employs Leidenheimer Pistolet-style rolls to contain slow-roasted beef, gravy, caramelized onions, horseradish cream and Zapps chips, and the duo say they consulted with local bakeries to give the special Big Muffaletta ($12 quarter; $40 whole) authenticity in the bread department.
Red sauce Italian gets a vegetarian spin here in the Parm sandwich ($11), which swaps out chicken in favor of burnt broccoli topped with tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and parmesan cheese on garlic bread. Those wishing to make their own sauce can snag a can of San Marzano tomatoes, in addition to tomato pasta, dried pastas and fresh cheeses. Or pick up ready-made ramen kits by Sun Noodle or a box of Annie's macaroni and cheese.
Every deli worth its salt does some type of breakfast sandwich; here, they're offering an Egg and Cheese ($6) made with soft scrambled eggs and pimento cheese on brioche (add Taylor ham or bacon for an extra $2), which they'll serve with a free cup of coffee anytime before 9 a.m. In fact, they're doing all-day breakfast, so if the craving strikes for a Breakfast Burrito ($7)—made here with chorizo, eggs, house-made Sonoran salsa and potato on a flour tortilla—at 7 p.m. on a Sunday night, they'll hook you up.
244 Himrod Street, 718-484-9291; twinsunsdeli
