Are you in the mood for dumplings filled with edamame and shallot or perhaps a rich paella studded with pork, lamb and white beans? At Park Avenue's newest restaurant Tasca Chino, you can have both, plus other dishes that straddle the line between Chinese and Spanish flavors. Here Chef Alex Ureña—who cut his teeth in the kitchens of Bouley and El Bulli, quite the resume—celebrates his two favorite styles of cooking with a best of list of dishes that highlight some quintessential elements of both countries.
Meals should begin with Dim Sum, gossamer-skinned dumplings filled with Edamame & Shallot ($8), with a fresh pea flavor scented with onion or Chicken & Chorizo ($8), hearty and faintly smokey. Both were excellent starters during a recent press preview, as was the Teriyaki Marinated Octopus ($15), the tender tentacles barely fighting the gentle press of a fork.
With so many options it's difficult to narrow down how much to order, especially since portions aren't the dainty bites we've come to expect upon hearing "tapas." The hefty Rice & Noodles section includes two iterations of Dan Dan Noodles, one more traditional with lamb and tongue-numbing Szechwan peppercorn, the other with a silky soy milk broth, ground chorizo and baby bok choy (both $22). A must order is the Chicken Two Ways ($26), arriving as a poached breast with seared, crispy skin and two fried legs lacquered in a deliciously sweet, thick sauce.
Cocktails and desserts aren't mere afterthoughts here, including an inspired drink made with wine and muddled grapes and another scented with orange oil. The standout Crema Catalana ($11) dessert channels a flan, but dips into Asian territory with accoutrements like crunchy wasabi and crispy black rice, then back to Latin with caramelized banana, pepita (pumpkin seeds) and a cassia cinnamon ice cream.
Restaurateur Simon Oren, who's responsible for nearby Pavillion in Union Square, as well as the Tour de France restaurants, tapped his daughter Adi to create custom art pieces for the space. Oren's vibrant works, depicting imagery associated with both China and Spain, adorn equally appealing wallpapers in intricate designs. The elegant space boasts banquette seating along the walls, with larger circular tables reminiscent of family-style meals enjoyed in white tablecloth Chinese restaurants. The handsome bar and up front lounge area afford views of bustling Park Avenue.
245 Park Ave South, (212) 335-2220; website
