Turn on the Food Network at any time of the day or night and there's a very good chance you'll see Bobby Flay's face looking back at you. He's everywhere on television these days, hosting his own take on brunch preparations plus a variety of competition cooking shows, including one where contestants try to "Beat Bobby Flay." But just because his TV personality looms large, don't be too quick to cluster him with other TV hosts turned restaurateurs; Flay's got his money where his knives are, so to speak, especially at his handsome new NoHo offering called Gato.
Flay channels the rustic, flavorful dishes of the Mediterranean here, turning out tapas and paella and squid ink fettucine to the crowds that have swarmed since the restaurant soft opened a few weeks ago. Trios of bar snacks ($17) like Crispy Prawn with green romesco mayonnaise, artichoke heart with uni and a quail's egg and wild mushrooms with ricotta and hazelnuts have impressed bar patrons hoping to be plucked from obscurity and given a table. As have the Scrambled Eggs ($14) with almond romesco, Boucheron cheese and tomato confit, which critic Gael Greene dubs a "must have".
Entrees include the aforementioned paella ($27), which forgoes the sausage and chicken for kale and wild mushrooms, bolstered with crispy artichokes and an egg. Steamed Halibut ($29) gets a flavorful dousing in olives, mint, anchovy and a saffron-tomato broth; Wild Striped Bass ($29) gets a simple but effective treatment with roasted lemon, peppered olive oil and a pesto made with piquillo peppers. Bold flavors of Valdeon blue cheese and red wine bulk up an already hefty Charred Beef ($35) entree, which comes with farro flecked with broccoli rabe.
The beautiful hex tiles lining the floors of the main dining area will make you yearn for a Spanish terrace overlooking the sea. Orange, blue and white hues abound, including custom circular banquettes and vintage-looking glass light fixtures. Arrive early to score a seat at the four-sided bar, which offers a peek into the kitchen from one side; or the 12-seat lounge up front, where you can watch passersby on Lafayette Street.
324 Lafayette Street, 212-334-6400; gatonyc.com. Open Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. and Friday & Saturday, 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
