Yargh, this town needs more nautical theme restaurants, if only so that we can fantasize we're sailing away to a tropical isle where the bill will never find us. Right now there's Oceana, the midtown seafood restaurant shaped like an ocean liner, The Rusty Knot, the nautical pub-and-grub dive by the West Side Highway, and, opening Monday by popular demand, Harbour, seen here docked in West SoHo.

As these photos indicate, the teak dining room is designed to recreate the interior of a yacht, with portholes along the eastern wall, while the lacquered bar evokes a laid-back beach house—albeit one with upholstered ostrich leather walls. Your captains here are business magnate Richard Schaeffer (formerly of NYMEX Holdings Inc.) and Chef Joe Isidori, who was Donald Trump's personal chef for many years. He's calling his menu "Urban Market Cuisine," with "creative yet approachable classics," such as Braised Chuck Steak, Razor Clams, and Arctic Char. "Kim chi style" mussels with cabbage & bacon also catch our eye, as does the Cobia Sashimi with ginger, cucumber, ponzu & hot sesame oil.

Though the ambiance is all salty elegance, the prices really aren't outrageous, with the most expensive entree coming in at $26 (the white sturgeon with yellow curry, crispy garlic & shu mai), and other in the teens. For beverages, there are the requisite specialty cocktails, but also a wine list emphasizing bottles under $20, and craft brews such as Chocolate Stout, Dead Guy Ale, and Brutal Bitter. Boarding begins Monday for dinner at 5:30, to be followed by lunch, brunch, and—if winter ever takes the hint and scrams—outdoor dining. The menu is below.

Harbour // 290 Hudson Street // (212) 989-6410

crudo
pickled gulf shrimp…pineapple & tamarind $9
butter clams…cocktail sauce, lemon & fresh wasabi $6
cobia sashimi…ginger, cucumber, ponzu & hot sesame oil $10
kampachi crudo…la quercia ham, crawfish, jicama & arugula $14
sea scallop ceviche…sea urchin & thai mignonette $10

soup & salad
house chowder...fresh herbs & vegetables $8
garden salad…buttermilk dressing & smoked blue $8
maine lobster salad…miso, tomato, apricot, cilantro mp

shellfish
sea scallop…crawfish, cauliflower & raisin $12/25
cantonese style clams…black bean, tangerine & ginger $14/24
bouchot mussels… cabbage & bacon “kim chi style” $10/19

fish
halibut…harissa, dates, olive & bacon $25
arctic char…miso, grapefruit & yuzu $23
cobia…escabeche, caponata, serrano & romesco $24
white sturgeon…yellow curry, crispy garlic & shu mai $26

meat
braised chuck steak…spicy eggplant, celery root & cucumber raita $21
gianone chicken…garden vegetables & ver jus butter $20
hanger steak…peppercorn sauce $24

veggies
cabbage & bacon…kim chi style $5
cauliflower gratin…plumped raisins $6
spiced pomme frites…truffle aioli $6
crispy sweet onions…korean BBQ $5